Monday, January 26, 2004

the trip to windhoek was really nice. i rode the train, and slept a lot because i'd been vigorously relaxing over the weekend. i woke up to look at stars out of the window for a while, then watch the sun come up as we got to town. i spent the day shopping--buying some sports equipment for my students and (this is really the best thing) a mosquito net/tarp thing that i can use to camp out with and be under the stars without making friends with the fairly angry ants, spiders, and mosquitos.

i went to see the orthopedic surgeon today. he said that i have a grade three acromioclavicular joint dislocation, which means that the ligaments were very badly stretched. he said that there is a ten day or so window of time where doctors can put the joint back together and the existing ligaments will heal together. since we are past that window, he suggested i use and strengthen the shoulder and see how i like it -- if it isn't working well we might decide to get me some surgery. he stressed that there is a lot of controversy over how to treat this injury, that there are lots of people who this happens to that never have an operation, and that it isn't out of the question to reconstruct the ligaments in the future if we want.

i will probably only have monthly internet access for the forseeable future. please write anyway. i will go there with a floppy and try to have letters typed to those who are writing me and some relatively detailed stuff to put on here. if i didn't get one typed to you and i get time, i will definitely catch you the next month. also, if the internet is down the day i go shopping, i may not get to write at all some months. if you get to wondering how i'm doing, you can always call. especially on sundays i will try to be near the phone so that i will catch any calls. (lots of times i don't drag it around because it is lots better for my image if i'm carrying a cell phone... just like home, really).

ok, i wish i could write more, but i need to try to catch a pizza and then a train--if i make the train tonight i will be able to teach tomorrow. talk to you soon, jon

Sunday, January 25, 2004

Hello,

I have a mailing address here, now. It is:

Jon Isom
C/O Berseba ECS
Private Bag 2040
Keetmanshoop
Namibia

Any packages sent before the end of February should go to: Please underestimate their value (I may have to pay duty on them) but insure them for something (they are a lot less likely to dissapear):

Jon Isom
C/O US Peace Corps
P/Bag 6862
Ausspannplatz
Windhoek, Namibia


I have had a nice time in Keetmanshoop this weekend. I was doing some shopping and seeing a friend before going to Windhoek to see the orthopedic specialist. It will be nice to hear what this person has to say about my shoulder. It seems to me to be improving, so I hope that he says I look good and sends me back.

The beginning of school has been a real cultural experience. Many of the teachers don't seem highly motivated, and it is common to fart around in meetings for a few hours while the students wait outside for classes. This is in contrast to the fact that the students usually show up 15-30 minutes early for school, and are excited about learning things. The general math knowledge of my students isn't as awful as some places in Namibia. Many of the students have memorized the times table, and do long multiplication and division. It will still be a challenge to get the grade 10 students to pass the exam, because the test covers knowledge from grades 8-10 and few really understand the grade 8 and 9 stuff. It shouldn't be as bad getting the 8 and 9th grades caught up, although we'll have our work cut out. The students seem eager to learn though, and discipline problems haven't been too significant. I feel like I'm building a pretty good rapport with my class.

It appears that I will only have internet access about once a month for the near future, on shopping days in town. If the internet happens to be down when I come to town, it might even be every other month. This isn't great, but I do have a computer at my school, so I should be able to type some blog entries and emails ahead of time so things don't get lost. Below is an example of such a thing:



(I typed this on 1/18) I am sunburnt as I type. Yesterday I took another hike to the nearby volcano / mountain. This time I walked for almost 10 hours—I summited the mountain as well as walking all the way down to the floor on the inside. I followed a hiking trail out that went through the community campground, and it is pretty spectacular. The trail winds along the side of the mountain and there are tall cliff walls and colored rocks and all that jazz. The trip was just what I needed. I’m not supposed to be exercising until I see the orthopedic specialist in Windhoek on 1/26 about my shoulder, so I’ve been going a little nuts. It felt good to be tired, hot, and far from home and know exactly what I was going to be doing for the foreseeable future. Being on top of a mountain with a pretty good 270 degree view (it wasn’t 360 because it is a volcano with a rim) didn’t suck either. I had a nice conversation with the volunteers from the community who were working at the reception desk for the community campground at the mountain. We talked for almost an hour in KKG, which was really nice. I still have a long way to go to describe myself as fluent, but I’m able to communicate a lot of simple thoughts, and paraphrase some complicated ones.

Kiwan and I are living in a house located on the grounds of one of the dorms where students live during school. The place that is to be our permanent residence wasn’t ready when we arrived—something about negotiations with the ministry regarding fixing it up. The place where we’re staying is nice. It is made of concrete block with a tin roof, and has running water and electricity when the town does (we’re at about 75% of the time right now). It has two bedrooms, a decent sized bathroom with a shower, a living room, and a small kitchen. We don’t have a refrigerator now, but do have a borrowed hot plate that boils water in about 45 minutes. We were encouraged not to buy a bunch of stuff in the north that we would have to cart down here, so we’ve been surviving on simple food. I’ve been eating (mostly) maize meal porridge with occasional oatmeal, and peanut butter and jelly. There is a store in town where one can buy bread, eggs, rice, instant soup, cokes, and basic toiletries. Things there run about 50% more than at the supermarket, which doesn’t seem awful considering that town is 100 km away and this is a small place.

It is something of an adventure buying food here in !au tsawises. Aggressive panhandling is commonplace and it becomes especially prevalent when one is carrying food. People often provide detailed descriptions of their hunger, and I feel really awkward turning them down. Some are often drunk or eating as they ask, and it is not as difficult to turn them down as the people who really do look hungry.

Poverty is around. There aren’t really jobs here. People either work for the government (in the municipal office, at the schools, or on construction crews), are subsistence cattle ranchers, or live off someone who does. Reactions to this run the gamut. Some people seem really happy, friendly, and content. Others are angry—some at the government (which is dominated by another ethnic group than the community here comes from), some, it seems, at me, and some are just angry in general. Many others don’t seem to conceive of anything different. They live simply and eat when there’s food and don’t when there isn’t.

The students at the school where I’m working did really well last year on their exams. Approximately 41% (of those who didn’t drop out) carried a D average on English and their best five other subjects, which is enough to pass. This is up from a low of around 10% as recently as three years ago. Much of the change was attributed to the principal, who apparently canned some teachers who were misbehaving and generally made the trains run on time. He left for another job a few days after I arrived, so it will be interesting to see if we can maintain or improve on the current level of results.

The school is pretty nice. It was started during apartheid as a place where blacks could receive a quality education. I believe it was started by community members with funding from the Lutheran church. There are nice classrooms, decent furniture, and even a well-stocked but unused library. I don’t know what the situation is with regard to school books, but I expect it is on the order of 1 book for the teacher per subject.

The acting principal is a former volunteer from Nigeria. She and her husband stayed on here as teachers after their volunteer service ended. They are both nice people and easy to get along with. They have an amusing habit of finishing each other’s sentences and/or restating each other’s statements. They are nice people, to be sure.

I’m learning to shut up a lot. People aren’t, as yet, very receptive to suggestions that I have, and they’re just considered annoying. For example, when the Principal was moving I suggested that he line the sides of his truck with mattresses, so that the furniture wouldn’t bounce against it. They did it and loaded some things, then decided to unload everything while they moved the mattresses to the bottom of the truck, which is where they usually put them. All of the furniture looked pretty wobbly sitting there on the mattresses, and I will be surprised if his mirrors are still in one piece after banging together, but everyone felt better about doing things their way. Similarly, there was discussion in the organizational meetings at school about doubling the number of students that we register. The government will only pay for one teacher per 35 learners, and at a small school like ours (around 100 learners) it makes it difficult to cover all of the subjects. More students would improve this, but I mentioned that it would be impossible for us to cover all the classes if we had multiple sections in each grade. Talk continued of doing it, until a couple of days later when we were looking at how many periods we each needed to teach and someone mentioned that we would need to add hours to the school day if we added a bunch of new learners.

As you can see, the student teacher ratio policy can lead to a real chicken and egg problem.

Thursday, January 08, 2004

i don't have time to write a lot, but this will be my phone number: (081)293-2432

and i'm looking forward to swearing in tomorrow. expect another update with an address in 2 weeks or so.

best,

jon

Tuesday, January 06, 2004

one of you wrote: "Your description of the accident wasn't really clear, did you land on the board or on the rocks?"

i landed on the sand while the wave broke on top of me. the water was pretty shallow by the time the wave was breaking, so it was pretty much equivalent to diving off of something on to sand, then having someone dump a swimming pool on me.

good times.

the latest is that i'll be going to see an orthopedic specialist the week of the 15th. i have so far only seen a general practitioner about it, but he and the peace corps doctor in south africa agree that there isn't a lot of urgency. i guess they're going to put me in a sling starting tomorrow. it isn't so bad, i just can't do much with it.

new year's day was one of the best i can remember. a few of us trainees cooked brunch for everybody else. we listened to louis armstrong, danced around the kitchen, sweated like pigs, drank bloody marys, and generally had a ball.

we're leaving for real life on friday. i will, by the 23rd, put a phone number and address on here that should be good for the next couple of years.

we took a test to measure our language proficiency, and i was glad to score the better than my arch-rival khoekhoegowab trainee (and, well, all of the others). i am a 'intermediate-advanced' speaker, which means i can talk to people about stuff but i use simple language, paraphrase often, and make grammatical errors all the time. the interview went like this:

interviewer: "tell me about your trip to swakopmund."
jon: "i was swimming. the water broke me. my chest and shoulder hurt. i went to see the doctor. he said to go to the hospital. the nurses fixed me. then i slept by the water."
interviewer: "pretend you were playing with a friend, he got hurt, and you had to run for help. tell me what happened."
jon: "i was playing with my friend. he didn't see a baby goat. the baby goat didn't see him. he ran and hit the baby goat. he fell."
interviewer: "where did he fall?"
jon: "low."
interviewer: "then what?"
jon: "i ran and told the people to help my friend."
interviewer: "they said that the truck is out of gas and they don't have money. what did you do?"
jon: "i had money that lois told me to keep, so i gave it to them."
interviewer: "where did this happen?"
jon (knows only the words for home, school, and church): "at school."

and so on.

my best to you all. please wish me luck with the 'real life' portion of this experience, i will need it.